golden souls

how local artists are changing the business of wearable art

by Matthew Ryan Miramontes

Sarah Sindler always wanted to be an artist, but it was not until she began casting and working with fine metals like gold and silver did she find a career involving wearable art.

 

Other artists like Sakony Burton might have been involved with his clothing brand Désir

longer than he has been turning fine metals into pendants and rings, but his desire to

learn new techniques of metalwork brings a new meaning to independent shine.

 

Ira Helfer is the owner of David I. Helfer Jewelers which originally opened in the Clark

Building in 1936 that has offered mentorship to artists like Sindler who was able to get

her start under his hand.

 

While these three jewelers are representative of their own style and client base, they

combine to draw up the underground and forefronts of independent artistry in Pittsburgh

with fine metals and wearable sculptures. Not only are they able to develop a marketplace

for the world through their creation, but their art form can be a direct correlation to a

more personal Midas Touch.

 

“I didn’t know that I was going to be a metalsmith, I miraculously stumbled into it and

then I was able to eventually turn that into my job. I always wanted to be an artist, but

I think jewelry making has made that possible for me and to have a client base that is

large enough to support myself,” Sindler said.

 

There is also Naomi Curtis, 29, Braddock and Janine Paulson, 20, Squirrel Hill, who also

work under Helfer’s guise that can accredit him for not only connecting them to each

other in a tight-knit friendship but also accompanying them into the business side of

materials. 

 

Even while Sindler has ventured away from Helfer’s shop, she recognizes that he was

able to take her in and begin to show her the basics of metalworking.

Biting the Opportunity

Sindler, 31, of the North Side, was able to be placed directly into contact with Helfer after she continually was a frequent customer to get small pieces of work done at the shop. After one of the full-time employees took a two-week vacation, Helfer’s shop asked her to be an addition to the team and it was a stepping stone that led her straight into working with fine metals. While grills were never the main focus for Helfer, Sindler was always interested in creating wearable, teeth-clenching art pieces.

 

Sindler is completely self-reliant now, working in her own studio and uses her own means to craft the pieces. Once starting at Helfer’s shop doing polishing and casting, she can say this gave her the entryway into some of the deeper formality of independent metalworking through more intricate custom pieces.

 

“I had been working there for about six years, and I just needed more space in my brain to really have the ability to design what I wanted for RELD. I felt like I learned a ton there, but I wasn’t going to be helping myself if I stayed,” Sindler said.

 

While it was a completely undetermined future for Sindler, taking that first initial leap has now given her the confidence to survive off of her own brand and style.

 

“It was a risky decision to just stop working entirely and focus on myself, but I don’t regret leaving either,” she said.

 

Nowadays, a grill or metal being formed over the teeth might seem a normal attachment in the performance world and is now oftentimes a symbol of status or style. Sindler is able to see mouthpieces in a different light which led her to begin working with them for anyone who wanted some glimmer in their smile.

 

“I’m obsessed with people’s perceived notions of beauty, self-image, and confidence and what that means in an outward appearance or how they are expressing themselves,” she said.

 

It comes back to the root of the materials she works with and how Sindler is able to become fascinated with the creation behind gold and silver.

 

“I think I like grills and am drawn to making grills so much because it sort of exemplifies those flaws in a way that’s almost encasing them in gold or beautiful metals because socially, we present ourselves on media in a different way than how we feel about ourselves so it’s a conversation about that,” she said.

 But It was through this connection that pushed her to pursue a career in the arts, having the unique ability to work with gold, silver, diamonds, and pearls rather than paintbrushes and easels. One of Sindler’s works was a “Mid-Length Rhinestone Wig” that was rhinestone strands of wire wrapped to fit a steel armature of a metal framework that can be custom fit for and worn for $1,100 as a practical, but also a peculiar piece.

 

In the form of competition, Sindler explains that storefronts and independent artists almost always have an entirely separate level of clientele which creates a healthier community than it does any sense of rivalry.

 

“Our markets are pretty different where they have a history, my client base tends to be more performers like DJs, rappers, the musician type. I do custom jewelry apart from making grills, and some of my clients give me free rein of all creative decision making, so that is always more exciting.”

 

One of Sindler’s recent pieces was actually a gift to Paulson, it is a sterling silver grill with two hearts shaped out that is similar to her “Butterfly Cut-Out Grill” listed on her website (http://www.kingreld.com/) for $220. Many of the prices for silver and gold are actually much cheaper and affordable than what would be thought for the precious metal. The custom work of being fit to an exact copy of impressions for caps or grills is exactly what Sindler wanted to do.

 

Sindler is always trying to incorporate a person’s love and personality into the pieces that she develops. One of her newest commissions comes from a customer that loves rabbits, so Sindler is trying to figure out ways to put new spins on her craft.

 

“I’m working on a human collar that’s white gold sheet, with little hinges on the

side. It has these pink settings with pink sapphires and white rabbit fur fluffs set

behind the stone. Then a decorative pink gold cable chain that comes out to

$3,500” Sindler said.

 

As for excitement, Sindler is able to craft some incredibly twisted works like

pearl wig caps and ideas that shift on the bodily functions. Things like snot

and boogers which are often disgusting can become unique designs for

Sindler’s brand “KING RELD” to run with. 

 

Her webstore (http://www.kingreld.com/) contains a plethora of ready to order

materials like her “Blood Drips Nose Cuff” that is made with silver filled wire

that hugs the bridge of the nose for $130 and hangs over the bridge of the

nose down to right above the lips. Then, a sterling Figaro chain (popular Italian

style of chain) is attached next to each tear duct and dangles a pear-shaped

imitation garnet set in sterling silver cinch bezels.

 

“My friend Mike who is in a band had a prosthetic eye, and they wanted a

fancy eye for being on stage. So I molded an eyeball, then cut that in half

in the wax, hollowed that out so it was like two shells, then set a tiger’s

eyepiece and soldered the two back together.”

 

It frequently comes back to how Sindler wants to create not only intricate

and unique beauty from the wearable art she makes, but then also remind

the client that it goes deeper than just the material worth.

 

“I always want to invoke power and confidence in the pieces I make and for the people wearing it,” she said.

 

It may come off as strange, or even downright experimental, but to Sindler, her artistry is a fresh take on the idea of crafting a new style with old materials. Just when gold seems to become an old resource, jewelers and artists are able to reshape the metal into what beauty can truly be. Everything from grills to nails, from lips to glasses can be found under Sindler’s hand where even her grills are more medieval and whimsical than anything of a natural setting.

 

One grill named the “Marischa Grill” on her webstore is a sterling fang tooth grill that outlines six teeth with a genuine blue sapphire set on the middle tooth with dangling cubic zirconia set in sterling silver cinch bezel for $260. A long sterling chain is then attached to either side and secured with a big sterling silver hoop that dangles a pear-shaped imitation sapphire set. 

 

Another is her “Tusks Grill” which uses cow bone formed to fit like walrus tusks in bezels that are connected directly to the grill for $760.

 

“What I usually make is more crazy stuff that I sometimes will never sell, but I make it anyway and those pieces are great because they can open the doors to getting into shows. It’s funny because word of mouth is the best thing for me, and it relates perfectly to grills.”

Jackets to Jewels

Burton, 24, of the North Side leads more of an underground approach to the creation of his work that started with clothing drops on shirts and jackets. Now, he is creating jewelry that brands his logo “Désir” on pendants and rings instead of cotton and fleece. Even as he is just budding on his career, Burton is immersed with his passion and deliberately makes a point that he wants to learn every step of the operations. He starts from what materials to use all the way up with how to market the pieces as approachable.

 

Désir had its first drop of clothing three-four years ago but began to gain

traction around Pittsburgh when he created a smiley face wrapped in

barbed wire on hoodies, shirts, and stickers that were seen around local

venues and on performers in the city.

 

“At first, I was just making clothing to make it and then gradually people

wanted some too so I didn’t really know that people were willing to put

the money up to actually buy the pieces. I am just trying to put out this

message of affordable luxury that’s made well and priced well, but I am

still very early on in my career,” Burton said.

 

As he transitions into silver, his sterling pendants were one of the first

designs that Burton had for the public for $100 and came as a .925 sterling

silver pendant that was “about the size of a quarter” as listed on his

website (https://www.desir.us/product/sterling-pendant).

 

The pendant has depth to it as the letters are stacked on top of each

other through 3D layering done in Cinema 4D on the computer, then

shipped out to a jeweler to become physical.

 

“I am just about making these things tangible at the end of the day. As of right now, I just design the material-I don’t actually craft each piece. Eventually, I would like to be able to learn the process and then it all comes through research.”

 

Burton is taking an indirect step to lay the groundwork down for a promising return with an innovative attitude. While he may not be on the same level as Sindler, or nearly have the experience as Helfer, he has the vigor to be a one-man creation crew. 

 

While clothing is his main hustle, Burton is determined to begin making shifts into other mediums like furniture and jewelry as a full-time part of his future collections. Many of his designs and necklaces can be seen around the city at skateparks and in music venues, while his art has just recently been featured with Boom Concepts for the Side Wall Project.

 

“I wanna do it, so I do it. I like it, so I’m gonna make it, I’m not very structured, so the only structure is what I create and at least the promise is there. It might just come with the upbringing, sometimes ends meet and they have to meet.”

Learning the Ropes

Helfer, 63, of downtown Pittsburgh, started as a regular jeweler taking over his grandfather’s business, but eventually found himself in the mentor role with Sindler. Now, he has transitioned into being a business figure for Curtis and Paulson as their jewelry careers begin to develop.

 

“Sometimes there is no difference between brick and mortars versus independents, we both share private customers that will come specifically to those people to get their items. It comes down to technique where they work in different forms.”

 

Where those physical stores can acquire clientele is through their history and expertise in a niche style of work. Now that independents like Sindler are popping up around the city, there is more of a balance to the market for finding artists that can fit that desire.

A lot of these independents like Sarah [Sindler] do other niche items, I would have no idea where to even start on how to do a grill. And we all work together, it’s a community effort.”

 

In this shapeshifting community that has the ability to change frequently, Helfer is able to stay afloat in business by having a continuous client base that comes to him directly for services that independents may not offer and vice versa. Where 23 total floors of jewelers once operated and businesses, now only 13 storefronts remain through the consistent changes in brick and mortar business in Pittsburgh.

 

“Everybody that works for me does their own thing and they are all independent artists. They might not be at the point where they are fully supportive of themselves to the point like Sarah, but they are working toward that with each piece they create.”

 

The community seems to be the way that Helfer has been able to have such success over the years as he can orchestrate work from other surrounding artists.

 

“I mean everybody thrives from everybody else, we all shop, workaround and it creates an economy to work with,” he said.

Punk but Make It Fashion

Another veteran of Helfer’s shop, Curtis works with leather to create her artistry. While jewelry was her beginning focus, she is now able to adapt to a new medium while in the same vein of wearable crafts.

 

“I was able to become a part of the jewelry making community because of the

other people that I knew who were jewelers and they shared their trade with

me. I wanted to make myself a pair of bootstraps that no one else had, and

I asked to borrow some things from a close friend and she gave me a handful

of supplies and immediately just took toward leather making.”

 

Leather crafting has been evident in human history and originally started with

hide working, or the creation of scraping animal hides and processing those

scraps into leather through tanning. This process makes the hide more durable

and less susceptible to any decomposition or coloration. 

 

Curtis had always wanted to learn the steps to crafting with leather but uses

pressure as a direct motivating factor to begin.

 

“So I had already been making things but I didn’t have an inventory or a name,

but I wanted to do it. So I signed up for the event and I think it was about 3

months before the event, but I was mentally freaking out.”

 

While Curtis had practically nothing from the start of it, she was able to start

something that went from hobby to a practical job.

 

“That pressure was rough, but I felt like it helped me light the fire and get everything started,” she said.

 

Even though it is a practice that has historical use, the idea of working with leather can appear foreign when looking at a metal casting to then transition into working with animal hide. Curtis explains that the process is much closer and can be more rewarding if done correctly. 

 

Curtis’s brand “Death Rattle Jewelry Company” specializes in forming everything from metal molds of bat boot charms for $80 to punk-esque oxblood cuffs with metal studs that stepped freshly out of a Motörhead video for $100.

 

“I mean it is different, but I like to incorporate things from my casting world into my leather work too. And many of the pieces that I make are multi-mediums and there is something about it that doesn’t require waiting.”

 

While Helfer was able to lend a supportive hand to many of the independent crafters that also work under his roof, Janine Paulson, 20, of Squirrel Hill, originally found the jewelry process after beginning her own work and finding a lane to sell and operate her own brand through. With a large collection of her pieces being costume pieces that were mainly used for theater performance with pendants and necklaces ranging from $30 to $40.

 

“As I really started getting going with making more pieces, I started making pieces that I would just wear for myself. But I was speaking with the owner of a local shop called Three Pigs and the owner loved my work and wanted to wear them for herself.”

 

Three Pigs was an opening catalyst for Paulson, but she eventually found herself interning with Sindler and refining a craft that engaged to fit a more niche style through more intricate and detailed art forms.

 

“I started interning with [Sindler] because I saw she was doing what I really wanted to do, and she was doing something entirely different and unique. So everybody has their own distinct style and many of the people try to support each other in it and her grillwork was something that I really gravitated towards.”

 

Paulson’s first moments in jewelry were taking the different markets and trying to spawn a new hand on marketing and selling towards the business aspect of art. Like all of the other artists, they cite Helfer as a wealth of information that gradually grew to the basis of entrepreneurship and the formation of authenticity.

 

“I think what’s really helpful working with Ira is that I get a mass of knowledge in these things I wouldn’t know before, I would still be working in cold connection jewelry without a solder if it wasn’t for him. I think it just adds more benefits if you are trying to start your own thing and it helps legitimize you and your work.”

 

Now, there is a side to Paulson that has taken inspiration from Helfer and Sindler that slowly inches her closer and closer toward marketability within a continually shifting and redefining the marketplace. Where jewelry is never going to stop and new techniques will be introduced as time continues, Paulson sees Pittsburgh as a discernible marketplace even if that could not be the case in the future.

“There are now different markets like Hand Made Arcade every year or the Babyland Holiday Sale so there are more vending events that are created in Pittsburgh as gateways for people to sell. But, I don’t see Pittsburgh as a sustainable market and I think the hardest thing could be selling fine pieces where people like it, but don’t appreciate it.”

Keywords: Artists, Jewelry, Jewelers, Silver, Style, Pittsburgh, Pieces, Sterling, Grill, Metal

Matthew Ryan Miramontes operates Matt's Music Mine and is a future graduate of Journalism at Point Park University's class of 2020. 

Sarah Sindler, Gif of different pearl and silver wigs

Boot charms that were hand crafted and personalized by Naomi Curtis.

Boot charms that were hand crafted and personalized by Naomi Curtis.

Tusks Grill

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